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Post by Russell on Apr 3, 2018 14:57:58 GMT -6
For my oil washes, I actually stopped putting on a varnish beforehand. You do have to treat it more like a line wash but it gives an overall dirtier look that I prefer.
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Post by Nick P on Apr 3, 2018 15:22:21 GMT -6
So talk to me about oil washes. What's the deal, why are they good, how do you do them, etc.
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Post by Russell on Apr 3, 2018 16:16:08 GMT -6
They're a mixture of oil paint and mineral spirits. You can basically use any oil paint you would get at an art supply store. Since the medium is spirits and not water, the surface tension is a lot lower. This allows the wash to flow very easily into any recesses. Next time I'm using one I'll try to get a video. I use them almost exclusively when I'm airbrushing. I don't want to dull down a color with a wash just to paint it back on again, so I use the oil wash as an easy way to get into the recesses without messing up the base coat very much.
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Post by daniel, why on Apr 3, 2018 18:34:15 GMT -6
Helmet striiipppeee. Would you go purple with white stripe or vice versa? I love that guy's squad! It's so satisfying to look at. I was going to save helmet stripes for lieutenants and veteran Sgts, like in an inevitable Sternguard squad, but purple helmet with a white stripe would look pretty rad. Suggestion taken!
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Post by daniel, why on Apr 3, 2018 18:37:47 GMT -6
And these bikes look good. I think the zenithal highlighting is looking cool. What are you using as a glaze? Going to try GW Waywatcher Green, applied by brush. Eventually I want to find a way to use my airbrush to apply it. I think I could dilute a green ink to get the same effect, but I need to read up and experiment a little.
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Post by daniel, why on Apr 3, 2018 19:09:47 GMT -6
For my oil washes, I actually stopped putting on a varnish beforehand. You do have to treat it more like a line wash but it gives an overall dirtier look that I prefer. Oh nice! I hadn't considered that, I forgot the satin varnish is more for preparing the surface than it is protecting the paint. Do you still clean with a Qtip in clean mineral spirits after its dried? And do you still matte varnish it afterwards?
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Post by daniel, why on Apr 3, 2018 19:19:03 GMT -6
So talk to me about oil washes. What's the deal, why are they good, how do you do them, etc. What Russell said. Like airbrushing, it's a little more prep work before and after, but the actual execution is super easy and quick. On big flat surfaces you've certainly noticed the acrylic washes muddy the color underneath and can pool. Because the oil washes take a very long time to dry, and the solvent doesn't damage your previous paint layers, you can wipe it off very easily from areas where you want the original color to shine through. I see a lot of commission painters do this as one of their final steps for that reason. You basecoat, area highlight, edge highlight, even detail work, then do your oil wash to shade and catch all the recesses. As you can imagine, it can save a lot of time if you plan it out right. I still haven't planned it out right.
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Post by Russell on Apr 3, 2018 19:42:46 GMT -6
Do you still clean with a Qtip in clean mineral spirits after its dried? And do you still matte varnish it afterwards? Nope and nope. If you control the application of the wash instead of just throwing it on i don't need to clean it up. I have noticed that without the varnish beforehand the porous acrylic just soaks it right up. If you act quick you can clean it up with a brush and clean spirits but you have to act quickly. It's best to not be sloppy. This is the result, which I'm sure you've seen before:
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Post by daniel, why on Apr 3, 2018 20:44:52 GMT -6
Wow, that looks great! I thought you had sponge weathered that guy. I guess when it's done drying there's no reason you couldn't put more paint over it. I suppose in my case, the matte varnish is mostly to take the shine away from the previous satin layer.
I see what you mean about the different effect. I recall seeing a comparison of oil wash over gloss, satin, or matte varnish and how the it settled on the different surfaces, though I don't think that post included an example on an acrylic painted surface.
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Post by Nick P on Apr 4, 2018 7:10:22 GMT -6
I think I'm going to try this oil wash stuff on my admech/knight army that Forgebane made me start, should work well with all the mechanical pieces and leaving a little bit more grit and grime on the cloth of the admech models will just add a ton of character.
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Post by daniel, why on Apr 4, 2018 10:22:16 GMT -6
It's a good plan, Nick P! And AdMech are particularly well suited to this sort of technique.
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Post by Russell on Apr 4, 2018 10:58:28 GMT -6
Second that. I 'finished' the first Warglaive and totally forgot to throw the oil wash on it.
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mike
Butts
Posts: 628
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Post by mike on Apr 4, 2018 11:58:32 GMT -6
Stripes make you go faster.
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Post by daniel, why on May 1, 2018 22:37:08 GMT -6
Been slow going on the bikers, but here's my progress so far. Just about done with this guy. Started messing with some freehand on his right shoulder and hazard stripes on the grav-gun. The bike itself took way longer than I expected, but I'm pleased with the black against green. Really wish I'd planned this one out ahead of time and not gotten hasty with the glue, this would've been so much easier without the rider attached. I ended up trying glazing for the green stripe to try and match an airbrushed effect, and because I watched this guy explain it and make it seem very approachable. It was not as easy as he made it seem. Was thinking of adding decals or freehand to the bike, like that lightning bolt in a circle that's always on Space Marine vehicles. A number, probably between 1 and 9. Any preferences?
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cj
neophyte
Posts: 734
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Post by cj on May 2, 2018 7:23:19 GMT -6
The biker is very sharp.
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