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Post by Asyrean on Jan 6, 2017 9:14:07 GMT -6
Anyone have any advice on working with decals? Specifically, how to minimize (eliminate?) the air bubbles that form? Even more specifically, how to get the decal to look good/smooth on a curved surface (read: Space Marine shoulder pad).
I just started messing with decals for my blue marines. All in all, they look pretty good, but I can't seem to apply them such that there is absolutely no bubbles or slightly raised areas.
Anyway, if anyone has any tips, I'd be grateful!
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Post by Eric formerly Eric on Jan 6, 2017 9:40:19 GMT -6
I picked up some microset. Haven't used it, but apparently it's the key to smooth transfers.
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Post by Asyrean on Jan 6, 2017 10:07:37 GMT -6
Interesting. I've seen Microset and Micro Sol recommended/used in online videos, but I've refrained from picking any up yet.
If you get some experience with it, let me know. I'd be interested to see what it adds to the process and if it is really effective.
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T1m
new guy
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Post by T1m on Jan 6, 2017 10:16:44 GMT -6
If I'm putting decals on shoulder pads I generally use an exacto knife to cut little notches where the decal is going to bend. That helps to smooth it out. I also use Microset and Microsol. Microset is what you put down onto the model first, then put the decal on, and then brush a little bit more Microset onto it. If you are putting the decal on a flat surface that is usually gonna be good enough. If it's on an uneven surface or a curved surface you should brush on Microsol once the decal has dried. That stuff tends to soften the decal more and cause it to adhere even better.
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Post by Eric formerly Eric on Jan 6, 2017 10:27:28 GMT -6
So do you really need both? I only got microset, but it's sounds like I'll want Microsol for my marine shoulder pads.
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Post by Asyrean on Jan 6, 2017 11:00:20 GMT -6
Awesome. Thanks for the recommendation. Any idea if the Dojo carries Microset/Microsol? Or should I just order online?
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T1m
new guy
Posts: 302
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Post by T1m on Jan 6, 2017 11:22:32 GMT -6
I'd be surprised if they sold it but maybe somewhere. Otherwise online is where I got mine. You can try a regular hobby store where model train people hang out.
And I think both are recommended for shoulder pads. The Microsol really does work well.
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Post by Nick P on Jan 6, 2017 11:33:08 GMT -6
I don't use microset or microsol - you can help replicate the effects by using traditional gloss and matte varnish (I use GW gloss and lahmian medium), as well as just a drop of dish soap in the water that you use to soften the decal.
Cover the area you're applying the decal to with gloss varnish. The gloss varnish has a texture to it (all the particles that make it shiny), and it gives the decal a better surface to attach to.
The dish soap in the water helps to soften the decal, and lets it become more maleable so it will adhere to rounded surfaces. But doing as tim suggested and cutting into it at the points where it needs to bend will certainly help.
After its applied, and dried, apply the lahmian medium to seal it, and to cover up the shininess of the gloss varnish. Voila! Your decal will look like its painted onto the miniature - no frosting, no discernible decal edges, and ideally no bubbles.
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Post by Asyrean on Jan 6, 2017 11:54:00 GMT -6
Nick PAwesome. In particular, thank you for the tip on the dish soap. When I was messing around with the decals, I experimented with cutting the decal slightly in places where it should bend, but still had areas where it bubbled up ever so slightly. Anyway, I will definitely try the dishsoap idea to soften it a bit. (I did also go ahead and order some microset/sol and will try that when it comes in.) Again, thanks for all the tips!
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Post by clint on Feb 7, 2017 13:46:40 GMT -6
Back in the day, we just soaked the transfer for 30 seconds or so and then used a pair of tweezers to slide the paper backing off and a paintbrush to smooth it out and then sprayed the mini with a matte varnish. (Reading other forum notes, some of you don't varnish your work?) But I also haven't used transfers in 20 years, so I'm sure things have gotten more sophisticated (as Nick describes).
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Post by Asyrean on Feb 7, 2017 14:40:10 GMT -6
Back in the day, we just soaked the transfer for 30 seconds or so and then used a pair of tweezers to slide the paper backing off and a paintbrush to smooth it out and then sprayed the mini with a matte varnish. (Reading other forum notes, some of you don't varnish your work?) But I also haven't used transfers in 20 years, so I'm sure things have gotten more sophisticated (as Nick describes). I actually ended up having luck, more or less, with the way Nick describes. You can see pictures in the Painting Log section. (My assault marines were the unit in question when I started this thread). Unfortunately, still got little tiny wrinkles here and there with the decals going on SM shoulder pads, due to the rounded nature of the pauldrons. However, where it was blatantly obvious, I used paint to "weather" the decal strategically in those areas. On my Rhino/Razorback, I had no problems at all since these decals were all on flat surfaces. Anyway, I bought some Microset/Microsol, but haven't used it yet. Might mess around with it the next time I play with decals to see if I notice any significant difference between it and the hardcoat/matte varnish method. |
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Post by Nick P on Feb 7, 2017 15:53:32 GMT -6
I actually just bought some Sol/Set too - for a similar reason you describe. When I was applying the decal to the curved surface of my necron destroyers, I couldn't get a couple of the bubbles removed no matter what I tried. Although I've not had issues on some other curved surfaces, I figured it is worth the few bucks to get something to fix it!
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Post by Luke GR on Feb 17, 2017 17:50:28 GMT -6
I use microset on the transfers. After they dry I put a coat of matte varnish over them. Some people use gloss varnish if the mini's paint job is shiny. Mine are more flat so the matte works well. I use Vallejo's matte. They have satin and gloss so it's easy to find what works.
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