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Post by Asyrean on Aug 29, 2016 9:14:01 GMT -6
Hey guys,
Did a quick webz search but didn't see what I was looking for. So, wanted to reach out see if anyone had any thoughts/advice/experience.
So, I botched a small area on one of my drop pods while experimenting with my new airbrush. Basically left a ring of paint in a small area due to too much air pressure, or too little paint, or too big of a needle or, most likely, too little knowledge of how to airbrush.
Anyway, I was thinking about hitting the small area with sand paper just to take the paint back down, but not eat into the plastic. That way I can paint back over it and smooth out my dumb ass mistake. I dont want to go the route of simple green or simple clean because I'm not stripping the whole model, just trying to clean up a small, localized area.
So, my question, do folks use sand paper at all with their plastic minis? If so, any advice on grain size, or type of sand paper, etc? I assume the finest possible would be the way to go. But, just wanted to see if anyone could point me in the right direction.
As always, appreciate any comments!
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Post by Nick P on Aug 29, 2016 9:36:04 GMT -6
I do (shocker, I know). I actually bought a pack of emery boards for nail care from a 7/11, and have been using them slowly over the last few years. They're very fine grit sandpaper, basically, and work wonders for exactly what you describe - the removal of paint from a small area (and things like excess glue too), and they work especially well on flat surfaces for obvious reasons.
I actually just did this the other day in order to remove the paint from the doors on my Spartan, so I could repaint them not so thickly and add new transfers instead of (poorly) freehanding some details, and it turned out great. I've also heard of people using warm/hot water on the area first to help loosen the paint a bit; I went straight to sanding, but that could work too.
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Post by Asyrean on Aug 29, 2016 9:44:27 GMT -6
I do (shocker, I know). I actually bought a pack of emery boards for nail care from a 7/11, and have been using them slowly over the last few years. They're very fine grit sandpaper, basically, and work wonders for exactly what you describe - the removal of paint from a small area (and things like excess glue too), and they work especially well on flat surfaces for obvious reasons. I actually just did this the other day in order to remove the paint from the doors on my Spartan, so I could repaint them not so thickly and add new transfers instead of (poorly) freehanding some details, and it turned out great. I've also heard of people using warm/hot water on the area first to help loosen the paint a bit; I went straight to sanding, but that could work too. Awesome man. Thanks so much for the pointer. I like this idea (the emory boards) even more than the idea of sand paper. Would be easier to control. And, maybe my fiance has some I can steal... And, if you didn't guess, this is related to what I chatted with you briefly about at Wanderer's yesterday. Next step, after fixing my mistake, I just need to figure out what I was doing wrong with my airbrush! Again, thanks!
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Post by Joelercoaster on Aug 29, 2016 19:31:12 GMT -6
I don't know exactly what they're called, but I've seen them used - specialty tools for cleaning flash/etc from plastic models. Very much like the emery board (a very, very fine grain rough surface) but on a tapered rod to give you finer control, and allow use on a variety of surfaces.
If the area in question is relatively large/flat, I think an actual emery board would be perfect. If it's anything resembling a nook, the aforementioned sort-of-mentioned tool may be something to look into.
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Post by Nick P on Aug 30, 2016 6:52:30 GMT -6
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Post by Asyrean on Aug 30, 2016 8:31:26 GMT -6
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Post by Joelercoaster on Aug 30, 2016 9:15:30 GMT -6
Very similar to those, Nick, but much finer. I think it may have actually been a tool specifically designed to deal with finecast, or at least a "hobby-model" version of those. BUT, if you were able to find a file set of an appropriate fine-ness, that'd certainly do the trick for those hard-to-reach spaces.
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