doubleback
novice
I rock harder than most, yet less hard than some.
Posts: 1,262 
|
Post by doubleback on Jun 7, 2016 7:09:56 GMT -6
I have decided that gray orks are probably not particularly cannon, so I'm gearing up to paint 200 boyz and I thought I'd start a thread for paint advice. YouTube obviously helps a lot on technique but I figure this can be another resource.
So first question: What brand paints do you use? I am hearing there are some superior options to GW.
|
|
|
|
Post by Eric formerly Eric on Jun 7, 2016 7:21:48 GMT -6
|
|
doubleback
novice
I rock harder than most, yet less hard than some.
Posts: 1,262
|
Post by doubleback on Jun 7, 2016 7:24:17 GMT -6
YES! This chart is exactly the kind of thing I wanted, thank you!
|
|
|
|
Post by Eric formerly Eric on Jun 7, 2016 7:49:49 GMT -6
Army painter isn't on there but they are like a cheaper version of Vallejo. I've had pretty good experiences with their paints too (except the brown leather I had was super oily and the pigment wasn't very strong). Their primer is also supposed to be good.
|
|
|
|
Post by Nick P on Jun 7, 2016 8:14:37 GMT -6
I use army painter primer and GW paints, just because its what I always had available. Dojo does sell Vallejo, and I've heard good things, so that would be a good option too.
|
|
dex
neophyte
STATUS
Posts: 739
|
Post by dex on Jun 7, 2016 8:40:17 GMT -6
Airbrush.
|
|
doubleback
novice
I rock harder than most, yet less hard than some.
Posts: 1,262
|
Post by doubleback on Jun 7, 2016 9:34:51 GMT -6
Just bought a nice airbrush (FYI Nick I'll bring my old set by the Dojo tonight if you are around) but I'm crappy at anything but priming with it. Anyone here good at actually detail painting with it? I've got a literal shit-ton of orks to paint and I'd love to be able to do it with something approaching efficiency
|
|
|
|
Post by Nick P on Jun 7, 2016 9:50:42 GMT -6
Woohoo! Thanks, I'll make a run up to the dojo to pick it up. What time are you going to arrive?
|
|
doubleback
novice
I rock harder than most, yet less hard than some.
Posts: 1,262
|
Post by doubleback on Jun 7, 2016 10:11:55 GMT -6
Hoping to be there to beat Will like a red headed rented mule around 6
|
|
|
|
Post by Nick P on Jun 7, 2016 11:16:10 GMT -6
I will try to arrive around 6:30 or so.
|
|
dex
neophyte
STATUS
Posts: 739
|
Post by dex on Jun 7, 2016 11:53:55 GMT -6
Literally the best airbrushing advice I ever got was someone told me to have enough drinks to stop caring a bit and paint a bunch of stuff with your airbrush. I painted about 15 tanks and some skaven while drinking. Helped out a ton. Also try doing a two part primer white/black and it will help.
|
|
doubleback
novice
I rock harder than most, yet less hard than some.
Posts: 1,262
|
Post by doubleback on Jun 7, 2016 11:54:54 GMT -6
Do you just do vehicles or do you do troops as well? The drinking I've got down.
|
|
doubleback
novice
I rock harder than most, yet less hard than some.
Posts: 1,262
|
Post by doubleback on Jun 7, 2016 11:55:19 GMT -6
Wait a two part primer?
|
|
|
|
Post by Nick P on Jun 7, 2016 12:29:01 GMT -6
A two part primer is when you spray a model black, and then spray white from the top only (a zenithal highlight). What you create is a model that has dark shadows at the bottom and in the crevices, a gray mid-tone in the middle, and a white highlight on the highest surfaces of the model.
It creates an easy-to-follow guideline for where the highlights and shades should go on the model, and if you spray a thin layer of another color over the top it will naturally be darker on the black, mid-tone on the gray, and brighter on the white. So basically 3 sprays (black, white, then a color) will give your model a ton of depth really quickly. It works wonders for big large models like vehicles and for the skin on monsters etc. Then you just go in with a detail brush to do the details and bobs your uncle.
|
|
|
|
Post by Nick P on Jun 7, 2016 12:32:11 GMT -6
They end up looking like this guy  |
|
